Rolex Submariner Buyer's Guide 2026: Which Reference to Buy

The Three Current References

The current Rolex Submariner range consists of three references in stainless steel, each sharing the same 41mm Oystersteel case, 3200-series calibre movement, and 300-metre water resistance, but differing in key details that affect their character and pricing.

The 124060 is the no-date Submariner, featuring a clean dial without a date window and no cyclops magnification lens on the crystal. This gives the watch a symmetrical, purist aesthetic that many collectors consider the truest expression of the Submariner's tool-watch heritage. It houses the Calibre 3230 and is the most affordable of the three references, making it the most accessible entry point into current Submariner ownership.

The 126610LN adds a date complication with the signature Rolex cyclops lens at three o'clock, powered by the Calibre 3235 with a 70-hour power reserve. The black ceramic bezel and black dial create a versatile, understated look that pairs equally well with a wetsuit or a suit. This is the most popular Submariner reference and the one most people picture when they think of the watch.

The 126610LV replaces the black bezel with Rolex's distinctive green ceramic, creating a striking two-tone appearance that has earned it the affectionate nickname of the Kermit or Starbucks among collectors. The green bezel against the black dial is undeniably eye-catching and gives the watch a sportier, more playful character. It commands the highest secondary-market premium of the three current references.

Buying New vs Pre-Owned

Buying a new Submariner from a Rolex authorised dealer means paying the official retail price and receiving a full five-year international warranty. The challenge is availability. Rolex produces fewer watches than the market demands, and popular sports models like the Submariner typically involve waiting lists that range from several months to over a year. Building a relationship with an authorised dealer, sometimes by purchasing other models or jewellery first, can improve your position on the list.

The pre-owned market offers immediate availability but at a premium above retail for current references. Platforms like Chrono24 and Watchfinder provide access to thousands of Submariners from dealers worldwide, with authentication guarantees and buyer protection. A pre-owned current-production Submariner in excellent condition typically sells for ten to thirty percent above retail, depending on the reference and market conditions. The advantage is instant gratification and the ability to choose from multiple examples to find the exact condition and configuration you want.

Pre-owned also opens up access to discontinued references, which can be particularly rewarding. The previous-generation 114060, 116610LN, and 116610LV are excellent watches with proven track records, and they can occasionally be found at prices below or near the current retail price of their successors. Discontinued references with strong collector appeal, such as the five-digit references from the 1990s and early 2000s, have shown consistent appreciation over time.

Investment Potential

The Submariner has one of the most impressive long-term value-retention records in the watch world. Over the past twenty years, virtually every Submariner reference has appreciated in value, with some discontinued models increasing by several hundred percent. The watch benefits from massive global recognition, limited production, and a self-reinforcing cycle of desirability that shows no sign of weakening.

However, it is important to maintain perspective. The watch market experienced a speculative bubble in 2021 and 2022, with Submariner prices on the secondary market reaching peaks that have since corrected by fifteen to twenty-five percent. While prices have stabilised well above pre-pandemic levels, the episode demonstrated that watches are not immune to speculative excess and subsequent correction. Buying a Submariner at a thirty percent premium above retail in the hope of short-term profit is a gamble, not an investment.

The strongest investment case for a Submariner is as a long-term hold. If you buy at or near retail price, wear and enjoy the watch for a decade or more, and maintain it properly with full service history, the historical evidence strongly suggests you will be able to sell it for at least what you paid, and quite possibly more. The key is buying for the right reasons: because you want to own and wear a Submariner, not because you are trying to flip watches for profit.

Our Pick

If we had to choose one Submariner reference, we would select the 124060 no-date. Its clean, symmetrical dial is the purest expression of the Submariner's design language, and the absence of the cyclops lens gives the watch a sleeker profile. It is the most affordable current reference, making it the easiest to acquire at retail, and its simpler movement without a date complication means lower long-term servicing costs.

That said, the best Submariner is the one that speaks to you personally. If you need a date function in your daily watch, the 126610LN is the logical choice. If you want something that stands out and makes a statement, the green-bezel 126610LV delivers personality that the black-dial models cannot match. All three references share the same exceptional build quality, movement technology, and 300-metre water resistance that have made the Submariner the benchmark diving watch for over seventy years.

Wherever you buy, whether through an authorised dealer or a pre-owned platform like Chrono24 or Watchfinder, insist on complete documentation including the warranty card, outer and inner boxes, hang tags, and instruction manual. A complete set adds meaningful value at resale and confirms the watch's provenance. Have the watch authenticated if buying pre-owned, and register it with Rolex through the My Rolex app for digital warranty management.

Frequently Asked Questions